Savannah vs. Charleston

It's a popular question, which city is the most beautiful and interesting. I've always wanted to see Charleston. I can't remember all the reasons why. Certainly "Gone With the Wind" was an influence, but several southern cities were included in that book. Then it was recently suggested that I should go see Savannah. I hadn't thought I'd go this far north, but in planning my return trip, I decided to go through Tennessee, so it became practical to see both cities. And in my limited experience, I'd say Savannah is the winner.

Savannah

Springtime is a great time to visit both cities. The city's famous azaleas are reaching full bloom, the wisteria is beautiful, the Spanish moss and resurrection ferns are lush and green. The only bad thing here are the pesky sand gnats (they're so prevalent, even the city's Minor League ball team is named after them). I have to apologize again for the bad photos, just iPhone pics taken by a poor photographer, sometimes from a trolley and sometimes with a dog pulling on the leash-arm.



I'm always charmed by stairs that are so old they're indented by all the footsteps that have passed over them.

The Savannah Cotton Exchange - historic center of power

Nice city hall

The first African American church - built by slaves at night after their days' work was complete.
I didn't go in to see them, but there are passageways to underground tunnels inside.

So much ornate ironwork in the city

"Dolphin downspouts" are popular on many of the historic buildings and are said to bring good luck


Charleston

Again, springtime enhances the beauty. I didn't have as much time to spend in Charleston, and if I had been there longer, I may have been just as charmed by it as I was Savannah. (The biting sand gnats were present here too, but I was only bothered by them near the waterfront.)

In addition to the beautiful city, another thing I was impressed by in the area was James Island County Park that I stayed at. It was an easy drive in to the city and had all the features you'd expect from a county park with trails and lakes, plus a campground, an off-leash dog park, disc golf course, climbing wall, ropes course and a water park. It could easily be a vacation destination for a family.

The waterfront homes were supposedly painted in such a colorful manner to assist in finding the right house when staggering home inebriated

Charley pausing to greet the patrons of "his" hotel

Dinner on the back porch of the Blind Tiger Pub. Charley, tired from three days of wandering around the cities, was content to just lie down and relax. 

Martinsville

I waffled about whether to go to another NASCAR race while in the South. The weather forecast was for seriously cold weather (down to 20) and some rain threat during parts of the weekend, so I put off making a decision until Thursday. I finally booked a "general admission" campsite at the track, and tickets for the Saturday and Sunday races, and headed that direction.

I knew it would be "dry camping" in the cold weather and prepared for that, and as I was driving Friday, I remembered from being here once for a race over ten years ago, that the terrain was hilly and it was likely I wouldn't have level parking for the motorhome. But I wasn't prepared for the mud. It rained Friday before I got here around dusk, and thankfully the gal at registration suggested I go up the hill 'cause it's not as muddy up in that area. Sure enough, there's no level parking left, but I found a spot that's not too bad when I use my "redneck" leveling boards. But I'm not wearing any good shoes here, and I'll be careful about where I walk the dog. This place is a mess! After I got parked, I met a neighbor, and when I mentioned the mud, he said, "Hey honey, you did good. Some of those folks down there'll need a tow to get out if it rains more." I also didn't anticipate that people would run their generators all night long here. Thankfully I'm a fairly good sleeper, but the hillside literally vibrates from all the motors running. I know I'll have fun at the races, but it's not really my style of camping. Here's hoping I get out before more rain, and that things stay civil up here on Thunderdome!

Red dirt + rainfall = nasty mud roads in places

Itinerary Update

I reserve the right to change my mind. Yesterday I posted an anticipated itinerary that included two nights in the Miami area. It turns out that I was able to see the things I wanted to see in Miami today, so instead of backtracking to the RV park SW of Miami, I've headed north.

Tonight I'm at Hollywood KOA in Hollywood, FL. Tomorrow I'll be somewhere between here and Jacksonville. I'm going to try to get a spot at Fort Pierce at Savannas Recreation Area, but it's Spring Break time, so don't know if I'll be in luck with that. I have a reservation Monday at Fort Clinch State Park on Amelia Island near Jacksonville, and I'd like to stay a second night there but wasn't able to book it online. We'll see.  That's the plan for now.

Goodbye to Florida Keys

Tonight is my last night in the Keys. I'm already looking forward to another trip.

Here at the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, there are so many activities to choose from, mostly water-related. I went out on a glass-bottom boat tour to see rays, barracuda and other fish at the coral reef; walked the trails; biked a little; took my blow-up kayak out with Charley a couple days and snorkeled. They have several "canoe trails" through the mangroves and I think I traveled through them all. I was glad that I had been out on the glass-bottom boat first, because at one point I got out of the canoe trail into the main channel and I was really happy to be able to figure out where I was, based on the previous day's trip. I had no idea I'd gone so far out from where I put in! I really wanted to try paddle-boarding, but the state park rentals wouldn't let me bring the dog out on their board, so I decided to try that some other time. I'm a little exhausted, but really satisfied with my stay here.

One thing I've done throughout my trip has been to try local craft beer whenever possible. My favorite here has been Islamorada Sandbar Sunday. I was on their website today trying to find out where I can buy it in bottles to bring with me, and I got a little choked up by their description:

If you’ve ever been to Islamorada then you know about our legendary “Sandbar.” And if you have yet to experience a day wading in the water with a cold drink in your hand, we invite you to join the Islamorada Beer group on any Sandbar Sunday for the time of your life. 

I couldn't tell you how many Sundays I've spent with Steve wading in the water with a beer in his hand, enjoying the afternoon. In fact, it was a regular mid-afternoon thing for him to look at me and say, "You drivin' home?" before having another. He was happiest on a sunny day, tide coming in, beer in hand and nothing else pressing. Good memories.

Anticipated Itinerary: 
Fri 20th - John Pennekamp State Park, Key Largo (I was lucky enough to be able to book one more night)
Sat & Sun, 21 & 22 - Larry & Penny Thompson County Park, Miami area
Mon 23rd - Fort Clinch State Park, Amelia Island (Jacksonville, FL area)

I've decided to go a different route home and will travel through Nashville & Memphis. I'm watching the weather and am considering popping up to the Martinsville, VA race on my way by. I'll figure that out in the next few days.

Key West

When people asked how far I was going to travel on this winter/spring journey, I'd say my ultimate goal was to get to Key West. I didn't really know much about Key West, but I knew that Key Largo was as far down as I'd gotten in my only other trip to Florida, I'd seen so many beautiful pictures, and it's the islands, so what's not to like, right? Along the way I learned that Key West could be a polarizing topic - people seem to either love it or hate it. I saw that as all the more reason to want to go and make up my own mind. It's a long way from home, but I'd definitely go back!

End of the road. From here it's just a long ride home!

It's an expensive place to stay, so I was really only there 3 days, 3 nights (plus a store run the morning of day 4). Something I'd love to do on another trip is to take the ferry out to the Dry Tortugas National Park, which takes a full day, and I haven't found an affordable way to take the dog. But I did see many of the city's highlights, a couple dog parks, attended one of the nightly sunset festivals, took part in their annual St. Patrick's Day Beer Stroll, and had a great time.

Now I'm in the slower-paced Marathon area and tomorrow I go back for a few more days in Key Largo. Today's big activity was to take the blow-up kayak out since the wind was moderate and I'm staying on the bay side (Gulf) this time. Thankfully my sunscreen worked all right!

Long Key

I'm at the Long Key State Park pretty much in the middle of the Keys. Tomorrow I head for Key West. The Keys are definitely meeting my expectations. I must really be an Island Girl at heart. Where I'm at right now reminds me much of the places we used to go in the Gulf Islands of Canada, where it's sunny, breezy, salty, relaxed, and your options to cover the territory are better by boat than by car. Of course in Canada, you catch crabs in traps in the water using bait. Here, the blue sand crabs are big enough you could eat them, and I swear I could catch one walking down the state park roads and trails. Not gonna try it, though. (Charley might - he's fascinated by the crabs running back to their holes in the sand!)

I couldn't be parked closer to the Atlantic and still feel safe. In fact, despite the fact that other campers were parked just as close, I checked tide tables before I went to bed the first night here. The water ranges from browns in the mangroves and at water's edge, to blues, to the most beautiful turquoise colors (I suppose I should use the term "aqua.") Driving across the bridges between keys, I'm really struck by how beautiful the water is.

Today I drove into Marathon, looked (unsuccessfully) for a place to do laundry so I wouldn't waste Key West time on it, went to an off-leash dog beach, and stopped by a tiki bar for happy hour drinks and dinner. It was a good afternoon. I'm constantly feeling muggy, sweaty, salty, sticky with sunscreen, and windblown here, and when I look around at the other people when I go to a resort, they look the same way. So I must fit in just fine.

Florida Keys Itinerary

One day in the Keys and I'm quite happy so far. I'm set to be in the Keys for two weeks, in several locations for both variety and economy.  At the location I'm currently at in Key Largo, I've got a nice, large, shady site with a patio and furniture. It was perfect for the morning coffee and breakfast. Each site here is privately owned and when the owner isn't using it, it can be rented out by the night. Here's the plan for the next several nights (departures on the following day):

March 6-7 - Key Largo Kampground & Marina
March 8-11 - Long Key State Park in Islamorada area
March 12-14 - Boyd's Key West RV Park
March 15-16 - Jolly Roger RV Park in Marathon area
March 17-19 - John Pennecamp State Park in Key Largo

Going Deep Into the Everglades

I'm headed into the Everglades National Park to the Flamingo Campground for a couple nights. I don't think it's likely that I'll have cell service there.

Then on Friday I'll be on my way to Key Largo for about 2 weeks in the Keys, staying at 5 different locations so I can experience the different parts. It's warm & muggy and I'm already mosquito-bitten. (Not complaining, by the way!)